Kicking the tires is an action that is synonymous with checking the soundness and quality of tires, but in reality, this does not really tell you much of anything at all. This pretty much sums up most drivers’ knowledge about tires because there are a lot of myths and misinformation on the subject. More often than not, drivers do not know when to replace them, how to inflate them properly and other essential basic care details. Maintaining properly filled and quality tires will not only increase the safety of your vehicle, but can also make your car more fuel efficient, so you should take the time to brush up on your facts and bust the tire myths. 

Myth: You should maintain a lower operating tire pressure in the winter than in the summer.

Fact: Some drivers will lower their air pressure in the winter in an attempt to gain more traction and control on icy roads, but in reality, driving on too-low tires can cause damage and make your vehicle less safe in dangerous conditions. Tire pressure will naturally lower itself in the winter without any action on the part of the driver, but you should check the pressure at least once a month, according to Tire Safety.com and this is especially important in more dangerous winter months.

Myth: You should inflate your tires to the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire.

Fact: The maximum pressure is not the ideal air pressure for operating your vehicle with a normal weight load. Instead, you should consult your owner’s manual and use the air pressure guidelines set forth by the manufacturer of your vehicle.

Myth: You can tell that you tires are low just by looking at them.

Fact: Looks can be deceiving, so always check your tire pressure with an accurate pressure gauge. Gauges at gas stations can become faulty and worn by overuse, so invest in your own gauge to keep in your glove box.

Myth: You should check your tire pressure when your tires are warm after driving.

Fact: According to the Department of Motor Vehicles, tires should be checked when they are cold to get the best reading. If you are taking a measurement during hot weather, wait until the coolest part of the day to ensure increased accuracy. 

Myth: There is a set amount of time that you should keep your tires before buying replacements.

Fact: Tire wear is very much dictated by each unique driver and vehicle pairing. Factors that can influence the speed of deterioration include harsh climate, rough road conditions, average driving speed and the weight and load of your vehicle. In addition to monthly pressure checks, Tire Rack.com recommends rotating your tires every 3,000 to 5,000 miles (you can sync it up with your oil changes) in order to even out the wear on the tires. This rotation will also serve as a check-up where the mechanic will ensure that your tires are safe and operational for the next 5,000 miles.

Changing a spare tire is not as daunting as it may seem. All you need is the right equipment and a bit of brute strength. Bear in mind that your car’s instruction manual will have directions on how to change a spare. You should consult this manual before changing a tire in order to ensure that you are following the correct procedure for your particular model.

 To change a tire, you’ll need:

·        A spare tire, obviously. Most, although not all, cars will carry the spare tire under the floor of the trunk. You should check the pressure in your spare when checking your tire pressure. Nothing is more disheartening than pulling over to fix a flat and realizing that your spare tire is flat as well.

·        A lug wrench (also known as a tire iron.)

·        A car jack

·        A wheel chock, large stone, or brick.

As soon as you notice a flat, begin looking for a hard, level surface, away from the road, where you can change the tire. Once you have located such a surface, safely pull over—don’t panic and make a dangerous lane change.

After pulling over, put your car into park (automatic) or first gear (manual.) Apply your parking brake and turn on your emergency lights. If you are near a busy road, you may also want to raise your hood, to let people know that you have stopped to make a repair.

Next, place the stone or wheel chock against the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel you are going to change; for example, if you are changing the left rear wheel, place the chock against the right front wheel. If you are on a slight downward incline, place the chock in front of the wheel; place the chock behind the wheel if you are on an upward incline.

Now, place the jack underneath your car on the side that the flat is on. Most recent models of car will have notches on the underside of the car near both the front and rear wheels to indicate where the jack should be placed. Consult your owner’s manual if you are in doubt as to where to place the jack, and make sure that the jack is making contact with the metal underside of the car and not a plastic frame.

Raise the jack until it is supporting the car. DON’T raise the wheel off the ground at this point. If you try to loosen the lug nuts while the tire is off the ground, you’ll just spin the tire.

Remove the hubcap and begin to loosen the lug nut. As with most things you turn the lug nuts counterclockwise (to the left) to loosen them. Remember: right—tight, left—loose.

Throughout this process, you should loosen—and tighten—the lug nuts in a star pattern. Don’t tighten or loosen the bolts all at once. Instead, loosen each one slightly, moving in a star pattern; start with one, loosen it a bit, then loosen the one across from it, then the one across from that one, etc. Once you’re back to the first nut, loosen them all a bit more.

At this stage, you just want to loosen the lug nuts slightly. This can be quite difficult; if you don’t bench press regularly, you may need to throw your weight against the wrench, or even jump on it. Just be sure you are turning the wrench in the right direction.

Once the nuts are loosened, it’s time to lift the wheel off the ground. After making sure that the jack is level and the car is steady, raise the jack until the wheel is four to six inches off the ground. Once the wheel is off the ground, finish loosening—and then removing—the lug nuts, continuing to loosen them bit by bit in the star pattern described above.

Once the wheel is off, lay it flat underneath the car, just in case the car body falls. Now, you need to fit the spare tire onto the wheel studs. Remember that the side with the air valve should be facing outwards.

Reattach the lug nuts and begin to tighten them, using the same technique that you used to loosen them. At this point, you want to tighten them just until the tire is snug against the wheel hub. Once the tire is attached, lower the wheel back to the ground and remove the jack. Finish tightening the lug nuts; they should be as tightened down as you can get them. Once you’re down with this, you should be good to go!

To learn more about this topic, or a broad range of subjects ranging from “How To Change A Tire” to “How To Jumpstart Your Battery”, visit DefensiveDriving.com’s Safe Driver Resources website!